Lake Como is less than an hour from Milan by train — beautiful in any weather, and one of the easiest escapes from the city. This guide covers the circular Varenna–Bellagio–Como route, the villas worth seeing from the water, and whether a day trip is enough.
Last verified: April 2026. Ferry timetables and villa opening times change by season. Always check official sources before travelling.
I have been to Lake Como three times. Once in heavy rain, once on a foggy morning when the mountains dissolved into the mist and the lake took on a quality that was almost dreamlike, and once under flat grey cloud. It has been beautiful every time, despite the weather.
Lake Como is one of those places whose atmosphere is entirely its own — the water, the mountains, the villas stacked along the shoreline — and that atmosphere holds whatever the weather gives you. If you're visiting Milan and wondering whether to make the trip, the answer is yes, regardless of the forecast.
The practical good news is that it's also one of the easiest escapes from Milan by train. Varenna is about an hour from Milano Centrale, Como is forty minutes from Milano Centrale, and a ferry network run by Navigazione Laghi connects the main towns regularly. No hire car, no motorway, no stress. Here is everything you need to plan a day trip — or to decide that a night or two is worth it.
At a Glance
| 🚆 Milan to Varenna | Trenord direct from Milano Centrale — approx. 1 hour, from ~€7 |
| 🚆 Milan to Como | Trenord from Milano Centrale — approx. 40 minutes, from ~€5 |
| ⛴️ Ferries | Operated by Navigazione Laghi — year-round, more frequent in summer |
| 🏰 Best for | Scenery, boat trips, villas, slow walks, lakeside lunch |
| 📅 Best time | Spring (April–June) for villa gardens in bloom; September–October for quieter crowds |
| 🗺️ The golden triangle | Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio — the most scenic central section of the lake |
| 🌧️ Worth it in bad weather? | Yes — the lake has a character in mist and rain that clear days don't offer |
Getting to Lake Como from Milan by Train
There are two main rail approaches, and which you choose shapes your day.
Milan to Varenna — the better option for most visitors
Take a regional train from Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino-Perledo — the journey takes around one hour and costs from €7 each way. No advance booking required — buy at the machines at Milano Centrale or on Trainline or Trenitalia. If you've bought a paper ticket you'll need to validate it before boarding at the green machines on the platform.
Varenna is the best starting point for a day trip. It's a small, beautiful village on the eastern shore — colourful houses stacked above the water, narrow lanes, a lakeside walk called the Passeggiata degli Innamorati (Lovers' Walk) that runs along the waterfront — and it sits at the centre of the lake's most scenic area. From Varenna station, the lake is a five-minute walk downhill. Ferries to Bellagio and Menaggio leave from the pier at the bottom.
Milan to Como — the alternative approach
Regional trains from Milano Centrale run to Como Lago in around 40 minutes — and Como Lago station is about 15 minutes walk from the ferry terminal, making it the most convenient option if you want to start your day in Como city. The best station to arrive at is Como San Giovanni, a ten-minute walk from the lakefront (don't arrive at Como Camerlata - this is too far outside of town). Como is a proper city rather than a village, with a cathedral, silk museum and a relaxed lakeside esplanade — worth a few hours in its own right.
The Circular Route — the Best Way to See the Lake
The most satisfying way to spend a day at Lake Como is to arrive by train at one end and leave from another, using the ferries to connect the middle section. Here is the route I'd recommend:
Arrive by train at Varenna → ferry to Bellagio → ferry down to Como → train back to Milan from Como San Giovanni
This gives you Varenna's quiet lanes and lakeside walk in the morning, Bellagio for two to three hours in the middle of the day, and the slower ferry journey south through the full length of the lower lake to Como in the afternoon. From Como San Giovanni it's 40 minutes back to Milan.
It's a proper day out — arrive early, leave in the evening — and it covers the lake's three distinct personalities: the intimate village feel of Varenna, the more polished atmosphere of Bellagio, and the urban scale of Como.
If you have time, Menaggio makes a natural addition to the circular route — a quick ferry hop from Bellagio before continuing south to Como
Buy ferry tickets at the pier — the operator is Navigazione Laghi and timetables are on their website. In peak season arrive at the ticket office 20 minutes before your ferry to avoid queues - you can buy the tickets there if you prefer.
The Three Towns Worth Knowing
Varenna A beautiful place to arrive to by train. The station sits above the village — a short walk down brings you to the waterfront, the ferry pier and the Lovers' Walk which threads along the edge of the lake between the buildings and the water. Villa Monastero, a former Cistercian monastery turned house museum, is here — its lakeside gardens are worth an hour if they're open. Quieter than Bellagio and a pleasant place to wander around.
Bellagio The most famous town on the lake and deservedly so. It sits at the tip of the promontory where the lake divides into two branches, which means the views extend in three directions. The lanes climbing up from the waterfront are lined with shops, cafés and restaurants. It gets busy in summer — arrive early or come in shoulder season. Allow two to three hours minimum.
For a quick, affordable lunch, Dai Viga Pasta Fresca on Via C. Bellosio is a no-frills fresh pasta shop with takeaway available — homemade pasta at very reasonable prices, and consistently one of the most recommended spots in the town. Grab a portion and find a bench by the water.
Como The city at the southern tip of the western branch, and the one most visitors overlook in favour of the prettier villages further up. It has a beautiful Romanesque-Gothic cathedral, a silk museum that traces the city's centuries-old textile industry, and a pleasant lakeside esplanade. The funicular to Brunate — a village above the city — gives you one of the finest panoramic views of the entire lake. Como works well as a half-day on the way back to Milan.
Menaggio On the western shore directly opposite Varenna, Menaggio is the quietest and most local-feeling of the four main towns — a proper lakeside village with a small harbour, a pleasant main square and none of the tourist intensity of Bellagio. It's the least visited of the four, which is precisely its appeal. Worth an hour for a coffee and a walk along the waterfront, and an easy ferry hop from either Varenna or Bellagio.
One stop worth making is Pasticceria Cassera Moretti — the cakes and pastries are excellent, and if you need a pause mid-afternoon, they serve a good cup of tea too.
The Villas — Why You Should See Them from the Water
Lake Como's famous villas are one of its defining features and the reason wealthy Europeans have been coming here since the seventeenth century. Most are private — belonging to old aristocratic families, film stars and industrialists — and cannot be visited. But they can all be seen from the water.
The most famous villas from the water:
Villa del Balbianello — perched on a headland at Lenno, terraced gardens dropping to the water on three sides. Used as a filming location for Casino Royale and Star Wars Episode II. The most photographed villa on the lake, and from the ferry it earns your attention. The gardens are open to visitors on certain days — check the FAI website for current opening times and book in advance.
Villa Carlotta — on the Tremezzo shore, with one of the finest botanical gardens on the lake. In spring the azaleas and rhododendrons are extraordinary. Open March to early November — tickets available at villacarlotta.it.
Villa d'Este — now one of the world's most celebrated hotels, visible from the lake at Cernobbio. Not open to non-guests, but unmistakable from the water. See the Villa d'Este site if you're interested in staying.
George Clooney's Villa Oleandra — at Laglio, between Como and Tremezzo. Private and inaccessible, but pointed out by every ferry captain on the lake.
Richard Branson's Villa Cassinella - this villa can only be reached by boat or helicopter, and is an exclusive private estate that can host up to 14 guests, but again is seen by all the passing tour boats.
The standard public ferry passes all of these on the Como–Colico route. If you want a more focused villa experience, private boat tours operate from most towns and can be booked through GetYourGuide — a view from a smaller boat is considerably more intimate than from the ferry and you will get a commentary during the route, so you know what you are looking at - but of course you will pay more.
Day Trip or Overnight?
Both work. Lake Como is one of those rare places that adapts well to either.
As a day trip: leave Milan by 8–9am to give yourself a full day. The circular Varenna–Bellagio–Como route described above is easily achievable and gets you back to Milan by early evening. Avoid arriving after noon — the ferry schedules get tighter later in the day and you lose the best of the morning light on the water.
Overnight: staying one or two nights transforms the experience entirely. The villages empty out in the evening once the day-trippers leave — Varenna and Bellagio in particular become quiet and genuinely lovely after 7pm. You also get the morning light on the lake before the crowds arrive. Varenna is a good base for a short stay — direct train back to Milan, central position on the lake, and a wider range of accommodation than Bellagio.
Getting There — Practical Summary
From Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino: Take the regional train, approx. 1 hour, from ~€7. Buy at machines or via Trainline or Trenitalia. If you do buy a paper ticket then remember to validate it at one of the green machines before boarding.
From Milano Centrale to Como Lago (San Giovanni): The regional train, takes approx. 40 minutes, from ~€5. Station exits directly into the town and is 15 minutes walk to the ferry terminal.
Ferries: Operated by Navigazione Laghi. Timetables and tickets on their website. More frequent in summer (April–October), reduced but still accessible in winter.
Returning from Como: Train from Como San Giovanni to Milano Centrale, approx. 40 minutes. Last trains run late evening.
New to Italian trains? Our guide to how Italy's train network works covers tickets, validation and everything else you need before you travel.
How Lake Como Fits Into a Broader Milan Trip
Lake Como is naturally one of the strongest day trips in the Milan cluster — close, easy and completely different in character from the city. It pairs well with a day on the Bernina Express to Switzerland if you're planning multiple days in northern Italy — the lake is directly on the Milan–Tirano train line, making it a natural first stop on the way to Switzerland.
For other day trips from Milan by train, our guides to Pavia, Bergamo and Oltrepò Pavese cover the best of Lombardy, and our guide to planning your Italy by train itinerary covers how to structure a broader trip that uses Milan as a base.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to Lake Como from Milan by train?
The best option for most visitors is the regional train from Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino-Perledo, which takes around one hour and costs from €7 each way. No advance booking is required. Alternatively, trains from Milano Centrale run to Como Lago in around 40 minutes — Como San Giovanni station is walkable to the ferry terminal.
Is Lake Como worth visiting in bad weather?
Yes. The lake has a distinctive atmosphere in mist, rain and low cloud that clear sunny days don't replicate. The mountains disappearing into fog, the water reflecting a grey sky — it's a different but equally beautiful experience. Don't cancel the trip because of rain.
What is the best town to visit on Lake Como?
Varenna is the best combination of beauty, accessibility and manageable crowds — direct train from Milan, a lovely lakeside walk and easy ferry connections to the rest of the lake. Bellagio is the most famous and most atmospheric but also the busiest in peak season. Como is worth a few hours for the cathedral, silk museum and funicular to Brunate.
Can I do a circular trip around Lake Como by train and ferry?
Yes — arrive by train at Varenna, take ferries to Bellagio and then south to Como, and return to Milan by train from Como San Giovanni. It's the most satisfying way to spend a day on the lake and covers the three most interesting stops without retracing your steps.
What are the best villas to see on Lake Como?
Villa del Balbianello at Lenno and Villa Carlotta at Tremezzo are the two most rewarding to visit in person. Both are reachable by ferry. Villa del Balbianello is also the most spectacular from the water — any ferry passing Lenno offers a clear view of its terraced gardens. Most other famous villas, including George Clooney's Villa Oleandra, are private and visible only from the lake.
Do I need to book ferry tickets in advance?
For most routes, no — you can buy at the pier on the day. In peak season (July–August), arrive at the ticket office at least 20 minutes before your ferry to avoid queues, particularly at Como. For some express services and fast boats it is advisable to purchase in advance online at navigazionelaghi.it.
What time should I leave Milan for a Lake Como day trip?
Leave by 8–9am to make the most of the day. Arriving at the lake by 10am gives you time to visit Varenna, cross to Bellagio for lunch and take the afternoon ferry south to Como before the last convenient trains back to Milan. Arriving after noon is possible but limits your ferry options significantly.
Also from Milan by train: Pavia · Bergamo · Oltrepò Pavese · The Bernina Express to Switzerland
